Saturday, November 28, 2009

My Christmas wish list

One year ago at this time, I was a busy working woman who planned outings to luxury hotels for afternoon tea, regularly attended baking and cooking classes, and planned my meals on a week-to-week basis.
These days, I consider myself to be more of a human pacifier who plans one-handed meals that can be eaten without any knives or forks, like bananas, granola bars, yogurt, and toaster waffles.
My signature Chanel-and-coffee scent has been replaced by the odor of pee stains, milk spit-up, and sweat.
No, it’s not glamorous being a new mom.
But that doesn’t mean I can’t dream big.
And so here is my Christmas wish list. I crossed most of the items off last year's wish list, so why not again this year?

Kuhn Rikon stainless cookie press and decorating set: True pastry chefs will cringe to hear me say this, but there is nothing I hate more than filling a piping bag and then washing it. I've taken to buying the disposable kind but that can get expensive. Is this kit the answer to all my troubles? Will it truly live up to its expectations and let me fill it without any problem? And can I wash it easily by hand or in the dishwasher? Chances are it will let me do all these things and more, after all, it's Swiss-made and you know they don't steer us wrong.

BakerBots Baking's Giant Cupcake cake: My God, is this not beautiful? The polka dot ribbon, the cherry on top, the pink icing. I'm falling into raptures just thinking about it. I'm not sure I would eat it even if someone bought it for me to preserve its beauty. But you should buy it for me anyway.
I will put it in the middle of my dining table as a centrepiece, put candles all around it, and stare at it all day with reverence and only speak in hushed, respectful tones. Come to think about it, kind of like a shrine. Dont get your drawers all in a knot. Just saying.

Macarons tower: Forget a Christmas tree this year, I want a macarons tower in my living room. The ones to your right can be ordered from Toronto's Bobbette & Belle. You can even customize the colours. If I had one of these towers I would hoard it all to myself and eat one every single day after my morning cappuccino. So don't go getting any ideas that I would share.

Digital candy thermometer: I can't flippity flipping make any type of flipping candy or bark or caramel because I don't have a flipping candy thermometer. And no matter how many times I try to determine that my candy has reached the appropriate hard crack stage by sticking my fork tines in the liquid, or coating the back of a spoon I can't get it right. I don't know why it's taken me this long to admit defeat, but I need a candy thermometer.

Greaves sour cherry fruit spread: I buy this sour cherry jam every time we go to idyllic Niagara-on-the-Lake on a day trip or a weekend away. Well, that's not happening any time soon, and I can't find this at my local gourmet store or anywhere else in the city for that matter, so it remains the elusive fruit spread. And no, regular cherry jam just won't do. Neither will strawberry jam, so please do not suggest the possibility. My English muffins and cream cheese are lonely without it.

Bonnie Gordon School of Confectionary Arts French pastries course: I've taken one of her courses before and have often referred to that day of making and decorating cupcakes as one of the best days of my life. After my son's birth and wedding day, of course, but the fact remains that day passed in a happy blur of flour, colourful fondant, and sparkling dragees. Bliss. I sang show tunes all the way home even though there was a winter storm. So when I received the email about this new course, in which I could finally learn to make macarons and flavoured guimauves I jumped up and down in my computer chair. Until I realized it's a two-day affair and I don't have any babysitters and I probably shouldn't be spending money on treats I don't have time to make. Still, a girl can dream.

Lifetime supply of Starbucks' Holiday Turkey Sandwich: When my son wakes up after his morning nap, I feed him and pack him into his stroller for our daily walk. More often than not, I am starving and don't have anything in my fridge, so I'll stop at the neighbourhood Starbucks to get lunch or a coffee. The first time I tried the Holiday Turkey Sandwich, straight out of the refrigerator without even being warmed up, my taste buds began humming the tune from Chariots of Fire. It's genius. Roasted turkey, cranberry sauce, and stuffing - STUFFING! - nestled between two pieces of whole grain bread. If I have one complaint it's that when it is warmed up, the lettuce gets soggy. But I will happily stuff my complaints in my back pocket if it means eating this sandwich all year-round. Starbucks, won't you consider my humble request?

Dinner at Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck:
Heston Blumenthal, you are one crazy cut. The proprietor and chef of one of the world's best restaurants -- despite a food poisoning scandal this year -- is a genius. Who else would serve a garden full of edible insects at a Mad Hatter-themed tea party? Or a bowl full of meat shaped as fruit at a medieval-themed dinner party? Or edible chocolate candles and cutlery for dessert? As "mad" as his ideas sound, his guests are always appreciative not only of the concept and the fact that he can pull it off, but the fact that his food tastes delicious. Just once I'd like to sit in his restaurant.

Dinner at Solo per Due, the smallest restaurant in the world: Now this, this would be the ultimate coup. Securing a table for two at the world's smallest restaurant. In fact, it would be the ONLY table at this restaurant. Situated in the heart of picturesque Italy, about 68 km north of Rome, the restaurant is in a building which "dates from the nineteenth century and is situated in a very evocative historical location; in the grounds there are the remains of a Roman villa." Hot dayum. After a stroll through the garden or an aperitif in front of a roaring fire, you can summon the staff by ringing a silver bell and the chef will spend the evening cooking for you with local ingredients. What's on the menu? I have no idea. Nor do I really care.

A granite island:
What was it that Virginia Woolf wrote? That every woman must have an island of her own? Just kidding, I know that it was a "room of her own" and I wholeheartedly agree with her. As a writer, I need my own private space. And the same holds true when I am cooking or baking. The kitchen is my domain. Not because I subscribe to any antique notion that the woman's place is in the kitchen but because I love to bake and cook and like to be in control at all times. But I need more counter space. And my fantasy of a heavenly afternoon includes a vision of myself rolling out dough on a vast granite island. And lots and lots of cupboard space. Hubby, are you listening?

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Happy one-year anniversary to me

It's been a year since I hit "Publish post" on my first blog entry and I can hardly believe I've made it this far. I first started this blog not only to chronicle my culinary journey but to record what I'd learned along the way.
But this blog has served as so much more . I've met fellow foodies; used this blog as an entrance point to navigate through awkward small talk; and found common ground with strangers.
This blog has been the witness to my culinary ups and downs, some tears, many regrets, but also my personal triumphs. I've learned how to use a culinary torch; taken a cupcake decorating course, as well as French bistro and Chinese dumpling-making cooking classes; successfully used fondant, found and purchased a financiers pan, sheepishly distinguished wax paper from parchment; gone off chocolate; come back on chocolate with the birth of my son; interviewed famous chefs such as David Lee and Vikram Vij; jumped around in joy when famed author and philosopher Alain de Botton congratulated me on my food blog through my Twitter account; deleted my first illiterate comment from a troll; reached out to readers in lands as far away as Afghanistan and Indonesia; improved my food photography skills and taken some photos that I am truly proud of.

Here's to another year, or 20, of Caramels, Bonbons, et Chocolats. Chin chin! Below you can rediscover my top ten blog posts, in order of most popular to least:


  1. Easter Egg Nest Cupcakes:



  2. Barefoot Contessa's Tomato and Goat Cheese Tarts



  3. Nigella's Cherry Chocolate Trifle



  4. Welcome Baby Boy Cupcakes



  5. Cupcake Decorating 101



  6. Baci di Dama or Chocolate-Filled Hazelnut Cookies



  7. Lemon Yogurt Cake with Blueberry Sauce



  8. Company's Coming: Top Ten Last-Minute Desserts



  9. Bahama Mama Banana Rum Cake



  10. Ham, Spinach and Gruyere Croissant Ring tied with Cappuccino Cupcakes with Dulce de Leche Filling

Monday, October 26, 2009

Cookbook Review: A Year in Lucy's Kitchen

When I first began flipping the pages of Globe and Mail columnist Lucy Waverman's new cookbook "A Year in Lucy's Kitchen" (Random House Canada), I was skeptical I would be able to select recipes to review.
As I've mentioned before, my life has dramatically changed with the birth of my son more than 10 weeks ago and I am relying more heavily on processed frozen foods and take-out. It's the stark truth and I am being honest despite the criticism or backlash I expect to hear.
And it's the truth for most young families, I suspect, despite the much-heralded return to seasonal, local cooking that is driven not only by the desire to preserve the environment but by financial need in these more expensive times. Indeed, the book's menu for an Economic Gastronomic New Year's party reflects Waverman is tuned into these more frugal times.
Sure, buying seasonal is the way to go. It's cheaper, it's healthier, and seasonal food tastes better. But are seasonal cookbooks just a timely gimmick? And can everyday home cooks buy seasonal and eat local on a regular basis?
After trying my hand at four recipes from this book all within a week's span, I am convinced the answer is a resounding yes.

My quick and dirty review of the recipes I tried:

Halibut with Spiced Moroccan Sauce (recipe below): This recipe comprised coriander, parsley, cumin, paprika, cayenne, tomatoes, and green olives. In short, a powerhouse of flavours. In the words of my foodie husband who is more picky than me when it comes to fish: "This is the best fish I have ever eaten." I can't say I agree with his assessment as I prefer simpler recipes that let the flavour of the fish speak for itself, but this was a delicious - and yes, easy - recipe I would even serve to the most discerning guests.

Moroccan Chicken with Prunes and Figs: Now this, this is a recipe you can really sink your teeth into. If you're anything like the average Canadian, you are probably bored of the chicken dishes you rotate regularly throughout your dinner menu. I know we sure are. Thai roast chicken; chicken fingers, chicken with Dijon sauce; chicken Picatta, chicken Marsala. The same thing over and over again can get tiring, and I was looking for something a little bit different. This is the recipe to help you break out of your chicken rut. If you find the recipe a bit too sweet, like I did, boost the amount of cumin and lemon juice.

Baked Sweet Potatoes with Maple Glaze: No matter how many times I've tried to bake sweet potato fries, and recipes have assured me that they will be crispy, they never turn out the way they are supposed to. This recipe, on the other hand, was divine. And easy. Score, and score.

Hazelnut Bark: I have tried, God knows I have tried, to make bark time and time again. But for whatever reason, I can't find my candy thermometer and perhaps that is the reason why past attempts at making bark have ended up in a gelatinous, squidgy mess. But this recipe didn't call for the use of a candy thermometer and I was immediately hopeful the few lines of instruction would be easy to follow. Alas, this recipe was no exception. Though I followed the instructions, waiting for the syrup to turn the colour of a light amber over 8-10 minutes time, it never did. I waited longer, still nothing. I have to admit, though, that this squidgy mess was delicious (I was forced to lick it off my finger after poking it to see if it hardened, obviously).

Despite, the failure of my hazelnut bark experiment, my verdict is that this book is a worthy investment. If you buy this book for one reason alone, and that is to make Waverman's Firecracker Chicken (a fiery, aromatic grilled chicken recipe I found years ago in a magazine and that I turn to whenever I need to tantalize taste buds and have them screaming for more), that will be enough.

The book breaks down the recipes on a month-by-month basis, and offers specific menus under each month. For example, "Chinese New Year," "Paris in the Spring," "New Indian" and "Deconstructed Hanukkah." Admittedly, the book is aimed at more of a Globe-and-Mail demographic rather than a Drudge Report junkie but herein lies the charm.

Waverman doesn't try to be all things to all people. Instead, she does what she does best - give the reader the confidence to try something new through her expertly-written recipes and personal anecdotes.

From a production standpoint, some of the menu introductions are printed on coloured paper and the white font is hard on the eyes. And some of the photos of herbs and veggies used in the book scream "file photo gallery" used to fill up white space rather than professional photos of Waverman's recipes. But it's obvious the publisher has considered its audience as this book stays open and flat at the page you are reading -- scoring big, big points with this cookbook lover.

This book would make a great Christmas gift for your favourite foodie.

Below you will find the recipes for Halibut with Spiced Moroccan Sauce; Carrot, Parsnip and Celeriac Stir-fry; and Spicy Green Beans.

Halibut with Spiced Moroccan Sauce

SERVES 4
The combination of spices and colours makes this a real taste treat and feast for the eyes. I make it with fresh tomatoes in summer and good-quality canned tomatoes in other seasons.

1⁄4 cup chopped fresh coriander
1⁄4 cup chopped parsley
2 tsp chopped garlic
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp paprika
Pinch cayenne
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1⁄4 cup lemon juice
1⁄2 cup white wine
2⁄3 cup chopped fresh or canned tomatoes
4 halibut fillets (about 6 oz/175 g each)
1⁄2 cup cracked green olives

PREHEAT oven to 425°F.

CHOP coriander, parsley and garlic in a food processor. Add oil, cumin, paprika, cayenne, salt and pepper and puree. Add lemon juice and combine. Reserve 2 tbsp spice mixture.

COMBINE wine, tomatoes and remaining spice mixture in a baking dish. Place halibut in baking dish in a single layer, skin-side down. Spread reserved spice mixture over fish.

BAKE for 15 minutes. Add olives and continue to bake for 5 minutes, or until white juices appear on fish. Serve fish with sauce.

Spicy Green Beans

SERVES 4
The deep-frying changes the texture of the beans and makes them as addictive as French fries, and a perfect foil for the fish. This dish can be prepared ahead and then quickly stir-fried to reheat before serving. You can also spread the deep-fried beans on a baking sheet and reheat them at 400°F for 5 minutes.

Sauce
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine or dry sherry
2 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp hot Asian chili sauce, or to taste
1⁄4 cup finely chopped shallots
2 tsp finely chopped gingerroot
2 tsp finely chopped garlic
2 cups vegetable oil
2 lb (1 kg) green beans, trimmed
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
Salt

MIX together soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, sesame oil and chili sauce in a small bowl. Set aside.

COMBINE shallots, ginger and garlic in a separate small bowl and set aside.

HEAT a wok or deep skillet over high heat. Add vegetable oil. Heat to about 350°F, or until a cube of bread browns in 15 seconds.

ADD beans in batches and fry for about 5 to 6 minutes, or until crisp and wrinkled. Place a strainer over a bowl and carefully transfer beans to strainer with a slotted spoon as they are ready. Let sit to drip until cool.

REMOVE all but 2 tbsp oil from wok. Add shallot mixture and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add beans and sauce and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until beans are coated with sauce and heated through. Drizzle with vinegar and season with salt.

Carrot, Parsnip and Celeriac Stir-fry

SERVES 8
Substitute other vegetables to suit your taste—turnips, rutabaga and sweet potatoes or squash are all good choices.

2 cups celeriac, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces
2 cups parsnips, peeled and cut in 1/2 - inch pieces
2 cups carrots, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces
3 tbsp butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tbsp chopped chives

COMBINE celeriac, parsnips and carrots in a pot. Cover with cold salted water and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 to 10 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Drain.

HEAT butter in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add vegetables and stir-fry for 5 minutes, or until browned and heated through. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with chives.

Excerpted from A Year in Lucy's Kitchen Copyright © 2009 by Lucy Waverman. Photography by Rob Fiocca. Excerpted by permission of Random House Canada, a division of Random House of Canada Limited. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Emerging Trends: Marshmallows, maple and more

The latest dispatch from the Center of Culinary Development highlights the latest emerging trends in the culinary world, including gourmet marshmallows and the use of maple as a luxury ingredient.

According to the trend analysts, fast food outlets are thinking outside the box to cater to their market. For example, 382-unit Philly cheese steak chain Charley’s Grilled Subs will be offering Korean-inspired sandwiches while a Kosher Subway restaurant is opening in North Miami Beach, making it the first glatt kosher restaurant of its kind in the Southeast and one of only nine in the country. The Subway will be offering Mexican turkey, soy cheese and corned beef and pastrami instead of its usual pork and cheese products.

Canadian maple is also being used by our neighbours to the south as a luxury ingredient because of its rising price. According to SideDish "Maple is being used in ice creams at Huckleberry in Santa Monica, CA; to braise cippolini onions for burgers at Village Whiskey in Philly; and glazing shrimp at Sonsie in Boston."

Meanwhile in our own backyard, marshmallows have replaced cupcakes as the childhood favourite to get a makeover as an upscale sweet treat. Across Canada, handmade marshmallows are appearing in high-end bakeries and gourmet shops with flavours such as violet, poppy, coffee, banana, pecan-cinnamon, strawberry and toasted coconut.

We'll know marshmallows have truly hit the masses with Starbucks finds a way to feature them as part of their drink menu, like when salted caramel crossed over into the mainstream.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Cookbook Review: Two Dishes

When you are a new mom and you can barely find the time to wash your hair much less figure out how to calm your wailing two-month-old who just developed an ear infection and fever, the last thing you want to do is try cooking new recipes.

I'll be honest here: It was not an easy couple of weeks in our household.
My son is now about two months old and going through what the experts say is the peak of fussiness. On most days, I'm lucky if I can find the time to warm the instant oatmeal in the microwave.

Despite all this, I managed to make four recipes from the new cookbook "Two Dishes" (McClelland & Stewart) by Linda Haynes and Devin Connell : coconut French toast with pineapple maple syrup, lemon and Parmesan orzo mac and cheese with chicken meatballs, Nana's heavenly rice pudding, and Cheeky Monkey ice cream cake. The recipes were easy to follow, quick to make, and divinely delicious.

You'll notice the common thread here is they are all variations on favourite comfort foods. And it's exactly that time of year, when the air gets crisp and I pull my favourite sweaters out of storage, that I begin to crave warm, dense, creamy or fried foods that remind me of my childhood.

Indeed, this cookbook came out right on time as the holiday season approaches, showcasing seasonal produce such as squash, pumpkin, and sweet potato (keep reading to the bottom for three great recipes).

"Two Dishes" was one of those cookbooks I may have walked right past in the bookstore. I didn't recognize the names, even though Linda Haynes is the co-founder of ACE Bakery and author of the bestselling The Ace Bakery Cookbook.

Fortunately for me, I took the time to leaf through this book, about a mother and daughter's two different approaches to cooking, and I was smitten. It was instantly relatable. Not only is it approachable, this mother-daughter team takes tried-tested-and-true meals and puts its own fresh spin on them. There are large coloured photos, pull-out "Kitchen Hints," and anecdotes about how or why these recipes came to be.

It's the kind of cookbook that will be dog-eared and splattered with oil and batter rather than the kind you will keep in pristine condition on your coffee table because you don't have the equipment or you can't find the ingredients to make the hard-to-pronounce recipes.

More importantly, the ingredients listed are not hard to find and the recipes turned out as promised.

My quick and dirty reviews on the recipes I tried:

The coconut French toast with pineapple maple syrup was a clever take on the breakfast favourite that substituted coconut milk for milk to dip the bread in, and involved warming pineapple chunks in maple syrup with nutmeg. It was easy, fast, and looked impressive. Next time, I will do my own version with blueberry maple syrup and I'll use day-old brioche instead of the crusty white bread the book called for.

The lemon and Parmesan orzo mac and cheese with chicken meatballs was delicious and a big hit. Who knew chicken meatballs could be so delicious? And this passed the reheat test as well. I do wish, however, that there was more colour in this dish. Appearances can be deceiving, but we do eat with our eyes.

Nana's heavenly rice pudding used Arborio rice rather than regular rice. This recipe was comforting, aromatic, just simply delicious. Although it took mere minutes to make, I think next time I might take more time and follow the traditional risotto guidelines which call for adding small amounts of liquid to the rice and waiting for it to be absorbed before adding more. I think that might help to make this rice pudding more creamy.

The Cheeky Monkey ice cream cake is one of those recipes you can whip up and throw in your freeze for when company is coming and you don't know what to serve. This recipe combines vanilla ice cream, ginger snap cookie crumbs, peanut butter, and banana slices. I think in the future, however, I may substitute toffee chips for the cookie crumbs, and maybe even some shavings of dark chocolate. One complaint, however, even with the plastic wrap lining the loaf pan, the end result was beige and boring. I think in the future I will freeze this ice cream in decorative bakeware such as mini bundt cake or muffin pans and serve the individual portions alongside some berries.

Below you will find, courtesy of McClelland & Stewart, three recipes from the book, including baby pumpkin puddings with cinnamon whipped cream and pecan brittle, honey-roasted squash with crumbled feta and walnuts, and turkey shepherd's pie with sweet potato crust.

Baby Pumpkin Puddings with Cinnamon Whipped Cream and Pecan Brittle
By Linda Haynes and Devin Connell, authors of Two Dishes

I have a confession to make. These delicate baby puddings scented with a touch of rum and orange zest started life as the filling for my mother’s pumpkin pie. But since I don’t have Devin’s deft hand in the pastry department, I decided to skip the crust and make these sweet little desserts instead. (Though for Thanksgiving dinner Devin and I work in tandem and turn out a pie that would make Mom proud.)

The puddings can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, but bring them to room temperature before serving.

Serves 6

Pecan Brittle
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
3/4 cup pecan halves (about 3 oz/90 g), broken in rough quarters
Pinch of kosher salt

Puddings
14-oz (398 mL) can pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling), about 1 3/4 cups
3/4 cup lightly packed light brown sugar
3/4 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground mace
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups evaporated milk (not condensed) or 18% cream
2 Tbsp dark rum
1/2 tsp lightly packed grated orange zest, preferably organic

Cinnamon Whipped Cream
1/2 cup 35% (whipping) cream
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp granulated sugar
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon

For the brittle, melt half the sugar in a small heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Once the sugar starts to melt around the edge of the pan, stir until all the sugar has melted. Add the remaining sugar and stir until it has turned a caramel color. This could take up to 15 minutes. If you have a candy thermometer, it should register 250°F (120°C), just below hard boil.

Stir in the pecans and salt and quickly pour the mixture onto a lightly buttered counter or baking sheet. Use a lightly oiled spatula to smooth the brittle into a thin layer (about ¼ inch thick). Allow to cool and then break into shards. Extra brittle will keep in a closed container for a few days.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

For the puddings, combine the pumpkin, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and mace in a large bowl.

Whisk together the eggs, evaporated milk, rum and orange zest in a separate bowl. Stir the egg mixture into the puree.

Divide the custard among six 6-cup ovenproof ramekins and place in a roasting pan. If there are any small bubbles on top of the custards, draw the tip of a small knife across the top to break them.

Make a bain marie by pouring warm water into the roasting pan until it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Place a piece of foil lightly over the top and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the puddings are barely quivering in the middle.

Remove the ramekins from the oven, cool on a rack and refrigerate, covered, until an hour before serving.

For the whipped cream, combine the cream and vanilla in a bowl and whip until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and cinnamon. Whip until the cream is soft and billowy. Refrigerate.

Garnish the flans with a dollop of whipped cream and a shard of pecan brittle.

Honey-Roasted Squash with Crumbled Feta and Walnuts

This is a wonderful autumn salad that’s a snap to put together. If I roast the squash a day ahead I can assemble the salad in 10 minutes – the time it takes to warm the squash in a 350°F oven. I like to serve Devin’s grilled shrimp next and finish with an almond tart.

Don’t overdress the mâche. It is very delicate and wilts easily.

Serves 6
1 lb (500 g) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut in 1/2-inch slices (about 12 oz/375 g after seeding and peeling)
2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp liquid honey, warm, divided
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 Tbsp walnut oil
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 oz (175 to 250 g) mâche or baby mixed greens (about 6 cups lightly packed)
1/2 cup crumbled feta (about 3 oz/90 g)

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Toss the squash and olive oil in a large bowl. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and lightly brush with half the honey. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn and brush with the remaining honey. Bake for another 15 minutes, or until the squash is cooked through.

While the squash is baking, place the walnuts in a small ovenproof dish and bake for about 5 minutes, or until lightly toasted.

Whisk together the lemon juice, walnut oil, salt and pepper in a small bowl.

Toss the mâche with the vinaigrette in a large bowl and place on serving plates. Top with 3 to 5 slices of squash. Sprinkle with walnuts and feta and a touch more salt and pepper. Serve while the squash is still warm.

KITCHEN HINT
Walnut oil is more expensive than vegetable oils and olive oils because of the difficulty of extracting oil from the nut. It also has a shorter shelf life and should be stored in the refrigerator once opened. It is not suitable for cooking at high temperatures, and is usually used to add flavor to cooked foods and salad dressings.

Turkey Shepherd’s Pie with Sweet Potato Crust

You might think that the words “comfort food” and “healthy” don’t belong in the same recipe, but here they certainly do. I am such a sucker for shepherd’s pie, but sometimes find that its heavy richness can be a bit much — at least after my third serving. So this recipe uses ground turkey, skim milk and low-fat yogurt, reducing the fat but none of the flavor. The sweet potato crust is a great alternative to your typical white potato and really adds a punch when perked up with cayenne pepper and cinnamon.

Serves 6
2 large sweet potatoes (about 1 1/2 lbs/750 g total), peeled and cut in 2-inch chunks
2 baking potatoes (about 1 1/2 lbs/750 g total), peeled and cut in 1-inch chunks
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 cup coarsely chopped cooking onion (about 1 medium)
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3/4 cup diced carrot
2 stalks celery, diced
1 cup frozen peas
2½ lbs (1.25 kg) ground turkey
1 tsp grated gingerroot
2 tsp kosher salt, divided
1/2 tsp cayenne, divided
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1 Tbsp all-purpose flour
3/4 cup skim milk, warm
1/2 cup low-fat yogurt, at room temperature

Place the sweet potatoes, potatoes and whole garlic clove in a large pot of salted water. Bring to a boil and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain, return to the pot and set aside.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat 1 Tbsp oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until transparent and soft.

Add the chopped garlic, carrot and celery. Reduce the heat to medium and sauté for 5 minutes.

Stir in the peas and cook for 1 minute.

Remove the vegetables from the skillet, transfer to a small bowl and set aside. Wipe the skillet clean with a paper towel and return to medium-high heat. Heat the remaining 1 Tbsp oil.

Add the ground turkey, ginger, 1 tsp salt, 1/4 tsp cayenne, cumin and cinnamon and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.

Sprinkle on the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, or until the turkey is cooked through and the juices have thickened.

Return the vegetables to the skillet, combine with the turkey and remove the pan from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Place the pot of drained potatoes over low heat. Add the warm milk, yogurt, the remaining 5 tsp salt and 4 tsp cayenne. Mash together with a hand masher or hand-held mixer.

Spoon the turkey mixture into a 13- by 9-inch baking dish. Spread the potato mixture on top in an even layer.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until the top is golden brown.

Excerpted from Two Dishes by Linda Haynes and Devin Connell Copyright © 2009 by Linda Haynes and Devin Connell. Excerpted by permission of McClelland & Stewart. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Mini pumpkin spice Bundt cakes

When the temperature drops, and the leaves crunch under my feet, I want nothing more than to warm my palate with the rich seasonal tastes of pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.

I took a several-week hiatus from blogging and baking after my son was born, but decided to get back in the kitchen and finally put my mini Bundt cake pans to use with a recipe for pumpkin spice cake. While my Kitchen-Aid mixer has been relegated to a top shelf I can't barely reach - to make room for the baby bottles and bottle warmer - I haven't lost my touch.

This recipe for pumpkin spice cake with maple cream-cheese frosting is from a wonderful book called The Art and Soul of Baking by Cindy Mushet. The recipe is for a regular cake, but I adapted it for the mini Bundt cake pans, left out the frosting, and decorated it with confectioner's sugar and caramel sauce. You can also make it in a regular Bundt cake pan.

The recipe follows.

Cake

•1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened (65° to 68°F)
•1½ cups (12 ounces) firmly packed light brown sugar
•2 large eggs, at room temperature
•1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
•1 cup (8 ounces) canned pumpkin puree (not spiced pumpkin pie filling)
•2 cups (7 ounces) sifted cake flour
•1 teaspoon baking soda
•¼ teaspoon baking powder
•¼ teaspoon salt
•½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
•¼ teaspoon ground allspice
•¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
•¹⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves
•½ cup (4 ounces) buttermilk, at room temperature

Frosting

•12 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
•¾ stick (3 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
•½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (6½ ounces) pure maple syrup, preferably Grade C
•1¾ cups (5¼ ounces) sifted confectioners’ sugar
•1 cup (4 ounces) pecan pieces, toasted and finely chopped, for garnish

1.Preheat the oven to 350°F and position an oven rack in the center. Lightly coat the pan with melted butter, oil, or high-heat canola-oil spray and fit it with a round of parchment paper.
2.Cream the butter with the sugar: Beat the butter and brown sugar in the bowl of the stand mixer on medium-high until very light in color, 4 to 5 minutes. You can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl, although you may need to beat the mixture a little longer to achieve the same results. Scrape down the bowl with the spatula.
3.Add the eggs: Beat the eggs and vanilla in the small bowl to blend. With the mixer on medium, add the eggs to the butter mixture about 1 tablespoon at a time, allowing each addition to completely blend in before adding the next. About halfway through, turn off the mixer and scrape down the bowl, then resume adding the eggs. Scrape down the bowl again. Add the pumpkin and blend well.
4.Add the dry and wet ingredients alternately: With the fine-mesh strainer, sift the cake flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves into the medium bowl and whisk to blend. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add the flour mixture and the buttermilk alternately, beginning with one-third of the flour mixture and half of the buttermilk; repeat, then finish with the flour mixture. Scrape down the bowl and finish blending the batter by hand.
5.Bake the cake: Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for about 1 hour, or until the top is firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
6.Make the frosting: Place the cream cheese and butter in the cleaned bowl of the mixer or a food processor. Blend until smooth. Add the maple syrup and confectioners’ sugar and mix thoroughly. Scrape down the bowl with a clean spatula and blend again briefly.
7.Unmold the cake: Run the thin, flexible knife or spatula around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake. Place a cake cardboard or tart pan bottom on top of the pan, hold the two together, and flip over. Lift the pan off the cake, leaving the parchment on the cake. Flip again so the cake is right side up. Level the cake, if necessary. Using the serrated knife, slice the cake horizontally into two layers.
8.Assemble and frost the cake: Place a cake cardboard (or plate) on your work surface. Using the second cardboard or tart bottom, transfer the cake’s top layer to the assembly cardboard, cut side up. With the icing spatula, spread a generous ½ cup of frosting evenly over the surface. Flip over the bottom layer of cake, slide it into place on top of the frosting, then remove the parchment paper. Voilà!—a crumb-free surface for frosting. Use the remaining frosting to cover the top and side of the cake. Use a spoon to create swirls all over the top by gently pressing the tip of the spoon, rounded edge down, into the frosting in a back-and-forth motion. Press the toasted pecans into the side of the cake. Serve immediately, slicing with a thin, sharp knife, or refrigerate until needed.
Storing: The cake will keep, refrigerated, for 3 days. It is best served at cool room temperature, so be sure to take it out of the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before serving. Once cut, there is no need to wrap the whole cake with plastic; simply press a piece of plastic wrap firmly against the cut surfaces to keep the cake fresh.

To make the mini Bundt cakes:
Thoroughly coat the Bundt pans with butter or oil spray then dust them with flour. Pour the batter in, but leave an inch or two of space. I baked these for about 35 minutes but the best way to test is by checking whether they are firm to the touch and inserting a toothpick in the centre comes out clean.

Substitutions:
I didn't have time to make the frosting so I tapped some confectioner's sugar on top of the mini cakes and then drizzled some caramel sauce for presentation. Next time I will indeed try the frosting and perhaps drizzle some pecans or walnuts on top for some added crunch.

Would I make this again?
Yes indeed I would. These were light, fluffy, and packed with flavour. The ideal fall or winter dessert for a casual dinner party.

Grade:
Five stars out of five. I made these in a race against time, praying, and hoping that my baby would not wake up. Fortunately this recipe was quick and easy, and turned out as promised.

Monday, August 24, 2009

My little cupcake


Baby A entered the world August 15 at 5:58 p.m. weighing 7 pounds, 5 ounces and measuring 20 inches long.

And boy oh boy did he take his sweet time getting here. I heard his first cry after 24 hours of labour and a C-section.

My little cupcake is taking up every waking, and sleeping moment, of my time. Some days, this house feels like milk central with the amount of baby bottles, formula, and random paraphernalia lying around. But experienced mothers tell me it will get better, and maybe I will even have the time to bake something yummy soon.

In the meantime though, do check back, and Baby A and I promise to cook up a storm together soon!