Cookbook Review: A Year in Lucy's Kitchen

When I first began flipping the pages of Globe and Mail columnist Lucy Waverman's new cookbook "A Year in Lucy's Kitchen" (Random House Canada), I was skeptical I would be able to select recipes to review.
As I've mentioned before, my life has dramatically changed with the birth of my son more than 10 weeks ago and I am relying more heavily on processed frozen foods and take-out. It's the stark truth and I am being honest despite the criticism or backlash I expect to hear.
And it's the truth for most young families, I suspect, despite the much-heralded return to seasonal, local cooking that is driven not only by the desire to preserve the environment but by financial need in these more expensive times. Indeed, the book's menu for an Economic Gastronomic New Year's party reflects Waverman is tuned into these more frugal times.
Sure, buying seasonal is the way to go. It's cheaper, it's healthier, and seasonal food tastes better. But are seasonal cookbooks just a timely gimmick? And can everyday home cooks buy seasonal and eat local on a regular basis?
After trying my hand at four recipes from this book all within a week's span, I am convinced the answer is a resounding yes.

My quick and dirty review of the recipes I tried:

Halibut with Spiced Moroccan Sauce (recipe below): This recipe comprised coriander, parsley, cumin, paprika, cayenne, tomatoes, and green olives. In short, a powerhouse of flavours. In the words of my foodie husband who is more picky than me when it comes to fish: "This is the best fish I have ever eaten." I can't say I agree with his assessment as I prefer simpler recipes that let the flavour of the fish speak for itself, but this was a delicious - and yes, easy - recipe I would even serve to the most discerning guests.

Moroccan Chicken with Prunes and Figs: Now this, this is a recipe you can really sink your teeth into. If you're anything like the average Canadian, you are probably bored of the chicken dishes you rotate regularly throughout your dinner menu. I know we sure are. Thai roast chicken; chicken fingers, chicken with Dijon sauce; chicken Picatta, chicken Marsala. The same thing over and over again can get tiring, and I was looking for something a little bit different. This is the recipe to help you break out of your chicken rut. If you find the recipe a bit too sweet, like I did, boost the amount of cumin and lemon juice.

Baked Sweet Potatoes with Maple Glaze: No matter how many times I've tried to bake sweet potato fries, and recipes have assured me that they will be crispy, they never turn out the way they are supposed to. This recipe, on the other hand, was divine. And easy. Score, and score.

Hazelnut Bark: I have tried, God knows I have tried, to make bark time and time again. But for whatever reason, I can't find my candy thermometer and perhaps that is the reason why past attempts at making bark have ended up in a gelatinous, squidgy mess. But this recipe didn't call for the use of a candy thermometer and I was immediately hopeful the few lines of instruction would be easy to follow. Alas, this recipe was no exception. Though I followed the instructions, waiting for the syrup to turn the colour of a light amber over 8-10 minutes time, it never did. I waited longer, still nothing. I have to admit, though, that this squidgy mess was delicious (I was forced to lick it off my finger after poking it to see if it hardened, obviously).

Despite, the failure of my hazelnut bark experiment, my verdict is that this book is a worthy investment. If you buy this book for one reason alone, and that is to make Waverman's Firecracker Chicken (a fiery, aromatic grilled chicken recipe I found years ago in a magazine and that I turn to whenever I need to tantalize taste buds and have them screaming for more), that will be enough.

The book breaks down the recipes on a month-by-month basis, and offers specific menus under each month. For example, "Chinese New Year," "Paris in the Spring," "New Indian" and "Deconstructed Hanukkah." Admittedly, the book is aimed at more of a Globe-and-Mail demographic rather than a Drudge Report junkie but herein lies the charm.

Waverman doesn't try to be all things to all people. Instead, she does what she does best - give the reader the confidence to try something new through her expertly-written recipes and personal anecdotes.

From a production standpoint, some of the menu introductions are printed on coloured paper and the white font is hard on the eyes. And some of the photos of herbs and veggies used in the book scream "file photo gallery" used to fill up white space rather than professional photos of Waverman's recipes. But it's obvious the publisher has considered its audience as this book stays open and flat at the page you are reading -- scoring big, big points with this cookbook lover.

This book would make a great Christmas gift for your favourite foodie.

Below you will find the recipes for Halibut with Spiced Moroccan Sauce; Carrot, Parsnip and Celeriac Stir-fry; and Spicy Green Beans.

Halibut with Spiced Moroccan Sauce

SERVES 4
The combination of spices and colours makes this a real taste treat and feast for the eyes. I make it with fresh tomatoes in summer and good-quality canned tomatoes in other seasons.

1⁄4 cup chopped fresh coriander
1⁄4 cup chopped parsley
2 tsp chopped garlic
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp paprika
Pinch cayenne
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1⁄4 cup lemon juice
1⁄2 cup white wine
2⁄3 cup chopped fresh or canned tomatoes
4 halibut fillets (about 6 oz/175 g each)
1⁄2 cup cracked green olives

PREHEAT oven to 425°F.

CHOP coriander, parsley and garlic in a food processor. Add oil, cumin, paprika, cayenne, salt and pepper and puree. Add lemon juice and combine. Reserve 2 tbsp spice mixture.

COMBINE wine, tomatoes and remaining spice mixture in a baking dish. Place halibut in baking dish in a single layer, skin-side down. Spread reserved spice mixture over fish.

BAKE for 15 minutes. Add olives and continue to bake for 5 minutes, or until white juices appear on fish. Serve fish with sauce.

Spicy Green Beans

SERVES 4
The deep-frying changes the texture of the beans and makes them as addictive as French fries, and a perfect foil for the fish. This dish can be prepared ahead and then quickly stir-fried to reheat before serving. You can also spread the deep-fried beans on a baking sheet and reheat them at 400°F for 5 minutes.

Sauce
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine or dry sherry
2 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp hot Asian chili sauce, or to taste
1⁄4 cup finely chopped shallots
2 tsp finely chopped gingerroot
2 tsp finely chopped garlic
2 cups vegetable oil
2 lb (1 kg) green beans, trimmed
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
Salt

MIX together soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, sesame oil and chili sauce in a small bowl. Set aside.

COMBINE shallots, ginger and garlic in a separate small bowl and set aside.

HEAT a wok or deep skillet over high heat. Add vegetable oil. Heat to about 350°F, or until a cube of bread browns in 15 seconds.

ADD beans in batches and fry for about 5 to 6 minutes, or until crisp and wrinkled. Place a strainer over a bowl and carefully transfer beans to strainer with a slotted spoon as they are ready. Let sit to drip until cool.

REMOVE all but 2 tbsp oil from wok. Add shallot mixture and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add beans and sauce and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until beans are coated with sauce and heated through. Drizzle with vinegar and season with salt.

Carrot, Parsnip and Celeriac Stir-fry

SERVES 8
Substitute other vegetables to suit your taste—turnips, rutabaga and sweet potatoes or squash are all good choices.

2 cups celeriac, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces
2 cups parsnips, peeled and cut in 1/2 - inch pieces
2 cups carrots, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces
3 tbsp butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tbsp chopped chives

COMBINE celeriac, parsnips and carrots in a pot. Cover with cold salted water and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 to 10 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Drain.

HEAT butter in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add vegetables and stir-fry for 5 minutes, or until browned and heated through. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with chives.

Excerpted from A Year in Lucy's Kitchen Copyright © 2009 by Lucy Waverman. Photography by Rob Fiocca. Excerpted by permission of Random House Canada, a division of Random House of Canada Limited. All rights reserved.

Emerging Trends: Marshmallows, maple and more

The latest dispatch from the Center of Culinary Development highlights the latest emerging trends in the culinary world, including gourmet marshmallows and the use of maple as a luxury ingredient.

According to the trend analysts, fast food outlets are thinking outside the box to cater to their market. For example, 382-unit Philly cheese steak chain Charley’s Grilled Subs will be offering Korean-inspired sandwiches while a Kosher Subway restaurant is opening in North Miami Beach, making it the first glatt kosher restaurant of its kind in the Southeast and one of only nine in the country. The Subway will be offering Mexican turkey, soy cheese and corned beef and pastrami instead of its usual pork and cheese products.

Canadian maple is also being used by our neighbours to the south as a luxury ingredient because of its rising price. According to SideDish "Maple is being used in ice creams at Huckleberry in Santa Monica, CA; to braise cippolini onions for burgers at Village Whiskey in Philly; and glazing shrimp at Sonsie in Boston."

Meanwhile in our own backyard, marshmallows have replaced cupcakes as the childhood favourite to get a makeover as an upscale sweet treat. Across Canada, handmade marshmallows are appearing in high-end bakeries and gourmet shops with flavours such as violet, poppy, coffee, banana, pecan-cinnamon, strawberry and toasted coconut.

We'll know marshmallows have truly hit the masses with Starbucks finds a way to feature them as part of their drink menu, like when salted caramel crossed over into the mainstream.

Cookbook Review: Two Dishes

When you are a new mom and you can barely find the time to wash your hair much less figure out how to calm your wailing two-month-old who just developed an ear infection and fever, the last thing you want to do is try cooking new recipes.

I'll be honest here: It was not an easy couple of weeks in our household.
My son is now about two months old and going through what the experts say is the peak of fussiness. On most days, I'm lucky if I can find the time to warm the instant oatmeal in the microwave.

Despite all this, I managed to make four recipes from the new cookbook "Two Dishes" (McClelland & Stewart) by Linda Haynes and Devin Connell : coconut French toast with pineapple maple syrup, lemon and Parmesan orzo mac and cheese with chicken meatballs, Nana's heavenly rice pudding, and Cheeky Monkey ice cream cake. The recipes were easy to follow, quick to make, and divinely delicious.

Mini pumpkin spice bundt cakes

When the temperature drops, and the leaves crunch under my feet, I want nothing more than to warm my palate with the rich seasonal tastes of pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.

I took a several-week hiatus from blogging and baking after my son was born, but decided to get back in the kitchen and finally put my mini Bundt cake pans to use with a recipe for pumpkin spice cake. While my Kitchen-Aid mixer has been relegated to a top shelf I can't barely reach - to make room for the baby bottles and bottle warmer - I haven't lost my touch.

This recipe for pumpkin spice cake with maple cream-cheese frosting is from a wonderful book called The Art and Soul of Baking by Cindy Mushet. The recipe is for a regular cake, but I adapted it for the mini Bundt cake pans, left out the frosting, and decorated it with confectioner's sugar and caramel sauce. You can also make it in a regular Bundt cake pan.

The recipe follows.

Cake

•1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened (65° to 68°F)
•1½ cups (12 ounces) firmly packed light brown sugar
•2 large eggs, at room temperature
•1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
•1 cup (8 ounces) canned pumpkin puree (not spiced pumpkin pie filling)
•2 cups (7 ounces) sifted cake flour
•1 teaspoon baking soda
•¼ teaspoon baking powder
•¼ teaspoon salt
•½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
•¼ teaspoon ground allspice
•¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
•¹⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves
•½ cup (4 ounces) buttermilk, at room temperature

Frosting

•12 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
•¾ stick (3 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
•½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (6½ ounces) pure maple syrup, preferably Grade C
•1¾ cups (5¼ ounces) sifted confectioners’ sugar
•1 cup (4 ounces) pecan pieces, toasted and finely chopped, for garnish

1.Preheat the oven to 350°F and position an oven rack in the center. Lightly coat the pan with melted butter, oil, or high-heat canola-oil spray and fit it with a round of parchment paper.
2.Cream the butter with the sugar: Beat the butter and brown sugar in the bowl of the stand mixer on medium-high until very light in color, 4 to 5 minutes. You can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl, although you may need to beat the mixture a little longer to achieve the same results. Scrape down the bowl with the spatula.
3.Add the eggs: Beat the eggs and vanilla in the small bowl to blend. With the mixer on medium, add the eggs to the butter mixture about 1 tablespoon at a time, allowing each addition to completely blend in before adding the next. About halfway through, turn off the mixer and scrape down the bowl, then resume adding the eggs. Scrape down the bowl again. Add the pumpkin and blend well.
4.Add the dry and wet ingredients alternately: With the fine-mesh strainer, sift the cake flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves into the medium bowl and whisk to blend. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add the flour mixture and the buttermilk alternately, beginning with one-third of the flour mixture and half of the buttermilk; repeat, then finish with the flour mixture. Scrape down the bowl and finish blending the batter by hand.
5.Bake the cake: Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for about 1 hour, or until the top is firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
6.Make the frosting: Place the cream cheese and butter in the cleaned bowl of the mixer or a food processor. Blend until smooth. Add the maple syrup and confectioners’ sugar and mix thoroughly. Scrape down the bowl with a clean spatula and blend again briefly.
7.Unmold the cake: Run the thin, flexible knife or spatula around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake. Place a cake cardboard or tart pan bottom on top of the pan, hold the two together, and flip over. Lift the pan off the cake, leaving the parchment on the cake. Flip again so the cake is right side up. Level the cake, if necessary. Using the serrated knife, slice the cake horizontally into two layers.
8.Assemble and frost the cake: Place a cake cardboard (or plate) on your work surface. Using the second cardboard or tart bottom, transfer the cake’s top layer to the assembly cardboard, cut side up. With the icing spatula, spread a generous ½ cup of frosting evenly over the surface. Flip over the bottom layer of cake, slide it into place on top of the frosting, then remove the parchment paper. Voilà!—a crumb-free surface for frosting. Use the remaining frosting to cover the top and side of the cake. Use a spoon to create swirls all over the top by gently pressing the tip of the spoon, rounded edge down, into the frosting in a back-and-forth motion. Press the toasted pecans into the side of the cake. Serve immediately, slicing with a thin, sharp knife, or refrigerate until needed.
Storing: The cake will keep, refrigerated, for 3 days. It is best served at cool room temperature, so be sure to take it out of the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before serving. Once cut, there is no need to wrap the whole cake with plastic; simply press a piece of plastic wrap firmly against the cut surfaces to keep the cake fresh.

To make the mini Bundt cakes:
Thoroughly coat the Bundt pans with butter or oil spray then dust them with flour. Pour the batter in, but leave an inch or two of space. I baked these for about 35 minutes but the best way to test is by checking whether they are firm to the touch and inserting a toothpick in the centre comes out clean.

Substitutions:
I didn't have time to make the frosting so I tapped some confectioner's sugar on top of the mini cakes and then drizzled some caramel sauce for presentation. Next time I will indeed try the frosting and perhaps drizzle some pecans or walnuts on top for some added crunch.

Would I make this again?
Yes indeed I would. These were light, fluffy, and packed with flavour. The ideal fall or winter dessert for a casual dinner party.

Grade:
Five stars out of five. I made these in a race against time, praying, and hoping that my baby would not wake up. Fortunately this recipe was quick and easy, and turned out as promised.